Split → Milna → Stari Grad → Vis → Hvar → Supetar → Split
Highlights
A relaxed Central Croatia sailing itinerary from Split, hopping between stone villages, vineyards, bays, and easy island passages.
Overview
Central Dalmatia is where Croatia really shows off. High, rugged islands drop into clear water, villages tumble down to the quay, and the summer breeze is usually kind enough that even nervous crew step aboard with a grin. From Split you can stitch together a Croatia sailing itinerary that feels adventurous, yet still very safe and manageable. Over a week you’ll sample quiet stone harbours like Milna and Stari Grad, mix in the wilder feel of Vis, then enjoy Hvar’s famous waterfront and Supetar’s easygoing charm. Distances are short, the channels are well-marked, and there are plenty of options if the forecast looks grumpy. One small confession: the first time I sailed this loop I misjudged a gelato stop in Stari Grad and we left late, arriving in Vis at dusk with everyone still talking about pistachio instead of reefing. You’ll do it better—this itinerary bakes in time for both sailing and snacks.
Special Gems
Along this Central Croatia sailing itinerary, a few small extras can really lift the week. In Stari Grad, consider an evening trip out to a vineyard in the Stari Grad Plain for wine tasting among ancient field walls; it’s low-key, atmospheric, and very different from the waterfront bustle. Around Vis, ask locally about quieter bays that suit the day’s wind—skippers often know a spot where the water feels like liquid glass late in the afternoon. Vis Island has a prominent submarine tunnel, which is a relic of its past as a Yugoslavian military base. The Tunnel is located near Vis town in Parja Bay on the north side. You can’t miss the massive rock-carved tunnel, designed to hide submarines from enemy surveillance. You can motor into the bay an anchor quite close, but it can get busy. Hvar’s Pakleni islands are worth at least a short visit, even if just for a lunchtime anchor and swim before or after your night in town. Milna and Supetar sometimes host small harbour festivals in summer, with live music and food stalls—follow the sound of singing and you’re probably in the right place. Finally, consider timing your trip outside the absolute peak weeks if you prefer space, or embracing the high season energy if you like a celebratory feel every night.
Passage Conditions & Navigation Profile
Moderate winds in summer, often a northwest. Tides typically 0.3–0.5 m
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Weather, sea, wind considerations: In Central Dalmatia sailors can expect gentle to moderate winds in summer — often a northwest sea-breeze called Maestral. Winter brings occasional stronger winds: Bura (cold, dry north-easterly) and Jugo (humid southeasterly). Waves in protected channels and near islands stay modest — typically 0.5–1.5 m — though exposed open-sea areas can become rough when winds pick up.
Level of navigation required: Coastal legs between islands and sheltered bays often allow line-of-sight navigation. But when crossing open water, entering narrow channels, or approaching reefs/shallows — especially if wind or sea builds — a prepared navigation plan with accurate charts is recommended for safety.
Tides and currents: The tidal range in the Adriatic — including Central Dalmatia — is small, typically 0.3–0.5 m. As such, tides rarely affect depth much for anchoring or coastal passage. Currents are generally weak and not a major factor, though in narrow straits or near river mouths subtle flow might affect manoeuvring.
Day 1 – Split to Milna (Brač)
Depart Split’s busy waterfront, dodge the ferries, and soon you’ll have open water ahead and the islands sliding closer. The run across to Brač is a perfect “first-day shakedown” for any Croatia sailing itinerary: short, forgiving, and usually with plenty of other yachts around to reassure nervous crew. As you round into Milna’s deep inlet, the mood shifts from city bustle to village pace. Stone houses line the sheltered harbour, pine trees fringe the water, and a couple of marinas plus town quays give you multiple berthing options. Everything you need—shops, cafés, bakeries, and a stretch-your-legs stroll—is just a few minutes’ walk along the waterfront.
11 nautical miles
2hrs sailing time
LUNCH STOP:none planned
MOORING:Two marinas plus town quay and nearby buoys; summer reservations helpful but not essential mid-week.
Description
Depart Split’s busy waterfront, dodge the ferries, and soon you’ll have open water ahead and the islands sliding closer. The run across to Brač is a perfect “first-day shakedown” for any Croatia sailing itinerary: short, forgiving, and usually with plenty of other yachts around to reassure nervous crew. As you round into Milna’s deep inlet, the mood shifts from city bustle to village pace. Stone houses line the sheltered harbour, pine trees fringe the water, and a couple of marinas plus town quays give you multiple berthing options. Everything you need—shops, cafés, bakeries, and a stretch-your-legs stroll—is just a few minutes’ walk along the waterfront.
Attractions
After securing the boat, wander Milna’s waterfront promenade and side streets. There are small beaches within walking distance for an afternoon swim, or you can take the dinghy to nearby coves for a quieter dip. In the evening, choose a konoba with tables almost at the water’s edge and try local fish, grilled simply with olive oil and herbs. If your crew is new to Med mooring, Milna is a gentle place to practice lines and fenders before the busier stops ahead. Early risers can enjoy a sunrise walk along the bay before the next day’s sail.
Cautions
Mind ferry and trip-boat traffic leaving Split, and watch crosswinds when berthing; check depth close to the quay.
Facilities
Water, shore power, fuel dock, small supermarkets, bakeries, cafés, restaurants, basic medical and pharmacy in town.
Day 2 – Milna to Stari Grad (Hvar Island)
Leaving Milna, you’ll slide along Brač’s coast before crossing toward Hvar. The channel usually offers steady breezes without feeling too exposed, which suits both keen helms and relaxed sunbathers. Approaching the north side of Hvar, the coast softens into bays, inlets, and finally the long, sheltered fjord-like approach to Stari Grad. The town itself sits tucked at the end, ringed by stone houses and low hills. Berths line the quay on both sides of the inner harbour, with additional spots further out for larger yachts. Despite being one of the island’s main ports, Stari Grad still feels like a lived-in community rather than a postcard set, which is exactly what makes it special.
14 nautical miles
3hrs sailing time
LUNCH STOP:none planned
MOORING:Town quay with laid moorings, some berths bookable ahead; additional spots along the inlet and nearby marina.
Description
Leaving Milna, you’ll slide along Brač’s coast before crossing toward Hvar. The channel usually offers steady breezes without feeling too exposed, which suits both keen helms and relaxed sunbathers. Approaching the north side of Hvar, the coast softens into bays, inlets, and finally the long, sheltered fjord-like approach to Stari Grad. The town itself sits tucked at the end, ringed by stone houses and low hills. Berths line the quay on both sides of the inner harbour, with additional spots further out for larger yachts. Despite being one of the island’s main ports, Stari Grad still feels like a lived-in community rather than a postcard set, which is exactly what makes it special.
Attractions
Stroll the narrow alleys of the old town, exploring small squares, churches, and galleries. A short walk or bike ride takes you out to the Stari Grad Plain, a UNESCO-listed patchwork of vineyards and ancient field walls that has changed little in centuries. Back in town, you can swim off the rocks near the harbour entrance or find a café terrace to watch the comings and goings of yachts. In the evening, try local wine and simple Dalmatian dishes—grilled fish, octopus salad, or pasta with seafood. This stop is also a good chance to top up supplies and enjoy a quiet, early night.
Cautions
The inlet can funnel wind; keep an eye on cross-gusts when docking, and avoid late-evening arrivals in peak season.
Facilities
Water, electricity, fuel nearby, supermarkets, fresh produce, cafés, restaurants, bike hire, medical clinic, pharmacy.
Day 3 – Stari Grad to Vis (Vis Island)
Today is your longest leg, and a rewarding one. You’ll clear Stari Grad’s inlet, set sail past Hvar’s western headlands, and then cross to Vis, which sits a little further offshore and feels more remote. The sea can feel more open here, but in settled conditions it’s a wonderfully straightforward passage with clear landfall. The route passes Pakleni islands which lie on your westbound route as you exit Hvar. This give you an ideal spot for lunch straight from the galley and a mid-passage swim stop before you set off across open water for Vis. Pakleni Islands are several tiny islets, creating beautiful turquoise shallows and great shelter in typical summer conditions. Scenic, peaceful and plenty of sandy patches for anchoring, with crystal-clear water for long swims. Arrive around late morning before boat-traffic peaks. Avoid the darker seagrass meadows — stick to sand patches for good holding and environmental care. If the wind is up, choose a spot on the north side of the lagoon for slightly steadier water.
22 nautical miles
5hrs sailing time
LUNCH STOP:Pakleni Islands. Depths sit around 6–12 m depending on where you drop anchor.
MOORING:Town quay, laid moorings, and buoys in the bay; summer bookings recommended where available due to demand.
Description
Today is your longest leg, and a rewarding one. You’ll clear Stari Grad’s inlet, set sail past Hvar’s western headlands, and then cross to Vis, which sits a little further offshore and feels more remote. The sea can feel more open here, but in settled conditions it’s a wonderfully straightforward passage with clear landfall. The route passes Pakleni islands which lie on your westbound route as you exit Hvar. This give you an ideal spot for lunch straight from the galley and a mid-passage swim stop before you set off across open water for Vis. Pakleni Islands are several tiny islets, creating beautiful turquoise shallows and great shelter in typical summer conditions. Scenic, peaceful and plenty of sandy patches for anchoring, with crystal-clear water for long swims. Arrive around late morning before boat-traffic peaks. Avoid the darker seagrass meadows — stick to sand patches for good holding and environmental care. If the wind is up, choose a spot on the north side of the lagoon for slightly steadier water.
Attractions
Once settled, wander Vis town’s promenade, then explore the alleys rising behind it. You can book a boat tour to the Blue Cave or former submarine tunnels, or simply hire scooters to loop the island, stopping at beaches like Stončica or Srebrna. History buffs will enjoy the old fortresses and World War II stories associated with the island. In the evening, find a konoba serving peka (slow-cooked under a bell) or grilled fish. If your crew still has energy, a night-time walk along the waterfront, ice cream in hand, is a perfect way to wind down after your longest sailing day.
Cautions
Watch for traffic in the channel and gusts near headlands; arrive with daylight for easier mooring in the busy season.
Facilities
Water, power, fuel station, several supermarkets, bakeries, restaurants, tours, scooter hire, medical services, pharmacy.
Day 4 – Vis local day (based in Vis)
Day four keeps your base in Vis, giving everyone a breather from point-to-point sailing. You can remain securely berthed in town and explore by land, or slip the lines for a short coastal hop to a nearby bay such as Parja’s submarine tunnel, Rogačić, Stončica or Stiniva before returning for the night. The island’s contours create plenty of tucked-away spots with good shelter and attractive surroundings, from olive groves and vineyards to pebble beaches backed by pines. Keeping the boat’s home port the same for the night reduces pressure on newer crews and gives your Croatia sailing itinerary a relaxed heartbeat in the middle. It’s also a great day to check gear, tidy lines, and enjoy simple boat life.
0-5 nautical miles
0-3hrs sailing time
LUNCH STOP:none planned
MOORING:Stay on quay or mooring from previous night, or shift to nearby buoys/anchorages; confirm charges if moving
Description
Day four keeps your base in Vis, giving everyone a breather from point-to-point sailing. You can remain securely berthed in town and explore by land, or slip the lines for a short coastal hop to a nearby bay such as Parja’s submarine tunnel, Rogačić, Stončica or Stiniva before returning for the night. The island’s contours create plenty of tucked-away spots with good shelter and attractive surroundings, from olive groves and vineyards to pebble beaches backed by pines. Keeping the boat’s home port the same for the night reduces pressure on newer crews and gives your Croatia sailing itinerary a relaxed heartbeat in the middle. It’s also a great day to check gear, tidy lines, and enjoy simple boat life.
Attractions
Options abound: guided tours to the Blue Cave (weather permitting and beware that queue times can be lengthy so be prepared to commit some time for this), military and tunnel tours, scooter or e-bike rentals, or just slow wandering through villages on the opposite side of the island. Swimmers can spend hours in clear bays, while food lovers hunt out family-run konobas tucked up side streets. If you opt for a short sail, treat it as a skills day—practice anchoring, dinghy runs to the beach, and reefing and unreefing without the pressure of a big passage. In the evening, pick a new restaurant or revisit a favourite, comparing notes on which bay had the bluest water. Stiniva, on the south side of the island, is Vis’ most spectacular cove, with a secluded pebbly beach flanked by high rocks. A great swimming and snorkelling spot and certainly worth the visit if you have time.
Cautions
Check Blue Cave tour conditions carefully; swell and wind can close it. In small bays, allow swinging room and good scope.
Facilities
Same as previous day in Vis: water, power, fuel, shops, restaurants, tours, medical services, pharmacy close at hand.
Day 5 – Vis to Hvar Town (Hvar Island)
Leaving Vis, you’ll retrace part of yesterday’s approach before shaping a course back toward Hvar Island, this time aiming for Hvar Town on the south-western shore. The passage is short but scenic, often with other yachts criss-crossing the channel and fast ferries streaking by. In settled weather the sea state is usually comfortable, letting the crew enjoy proper sailing without anxiety. As you close Hvar, the skyline changes: a hillside castle above, church towers in the middle, and a busy waterfront lined with stone buildings below. Berthing can be right on the town quay, at nearby mooring fields, or in marinas slightly away from the centre with taxi-boat links. It’s the liveliest stop on this Croatia sailing itinerary, and feels every bit the island hub.
14 nautical miles
3hrs sailing time
LUNCH STOP:none planned
MOORING:Town quay, nearby mooring buoys, and marinas on surrounding shores; advance booking strongly advised in high season.
Description
Leaving Vis, you’ll retrace part of yesterday’s approach before shaping a course back toward Hvar Island, this time aiming for Hvar Town on the south-western shore. The passage is short but scenic, often with other yachts criss-crossing the channel and fast ferries streaking by. In settled weather the sea state is usually comfortable, letting the crew enjoy proper sailing without anxiety. As you close Hvar, the skyline changes: a hillside castle above, church towers in the middle, and a busy waterfront lined with stone buildings below. Berthing can be right on the town quay, at nearby mooring fields, or in marinas slightly away from the centre with taxi-boat links. It’s the liveliest stop on this Croatia sailing itinerary, and feels every bit the island hub.
Attractions
Once secure, take the walk up to the hilltop fortress for wide views over town and the Pakleni islands. Down below, shops, cafés, and bars line the waterfront, with plenty of people-watching from any outdoor table. You can grab a taxi-boat to nearby beaches or the Pakleni islands for afternoon swims and sundowners. In the evening, Hvar offers everything from quiet restaurants tucked in back lanes to buzzy cocktail bars near the water. It’s a good night for a slightly later curfew, as the next day’s sail isn’t too demanding. Just remember to secure loose items on deck before bed—Hvar wakes up early with ferries and trip boats.
Cautions
Can be exposed to wash and swell from traffic; secure the boat well and be prepared for a lively quay at night.
Facilities
Water, shore power, fuel within reach, plentiful shops, markets, restaurants, bars, tour agencies, medical services, pharmacy.
Day 6 – Hvar to Supetar (Brač)
Today you’ll shape a course back toward Brač, swapping Hvar’s bustle for Supetar’s steadier rhythm. Leave Hvar Town, passing the Pakleni islands and then north around Hvar’s western tip, continuing across the channel toward Brač island and Supetar’s broad bay and ferry port. There are plenty of options for a lunch stop and certainly Milna Cove, just on the south side before passing between Brač and Solta islands is a good option. This is a small bay, approachable in settled weather with a very comfortable 6–12 m depth range. Sandy patches between seagrass beds give good holding. It has two small beaches and a few low-key beach bars make the place feel welcoming but not hectic. After lunch continue toward Supetar’s broad bay and ferry port. Despite the ferries, the harbour itself accommodates visiting yachts on the waterfront, and once you’re in, the town feels friendly rather than frantic. Supetar’s waterfront curve, backed by low hills and church towers, makes a fitting second-to-last stop before returning to Split.
23 nautical miles
4hrs 30mins sailing time
LUNCH STOP:Milna Cove, great in settled weather with a very comfortable 6–12 m depth range
MOORING:Town quay berths with laid lines; spaces can be limited in peak season, so arrive earlier in the afternoon when possible.
Description
Today you’ll shape a course back toward Brač, swapping Hvar’s bustle for Supetar’s steadier rhythm. Leave Hvar Town, passing the Pakleni islands and then north around Hvar’s western tip, continuing across the channel toward Brač island and Supetar’s broad bay and ferry port. There are plenty of options for a lunch stop and certainly Milna Cove, just on the south side before passing between Brač and Solta islands is a good option. This is a small bay, approachable in settled weather with a very comfortable 6–12 m depth range. Sandy patches between seagrass beds give good holding. It has two small beaches and a few low-key beach bars make the place feel welcoming but not hectic. After lunch continue toward Supetar’s broad bay and ferry port. Despite the ferries, the harbour itself accommodates visiting yachts on the waterfront, and once you’re in, the town feels friendly rather than frantic. Supetar’s waterfront curve, backed by low hills and church towers, makes a fitting second-to-last stop before returning to Split.
Attractions
Supetar offers a mix of local life and holiday atmosphere. Stroll the seafront, explore the older streets set back from the quay, and find an ice cream for any younger crew members who have heroically managed halyards all week. Small beaches lie within easy walking distance for one more long swim. You can also hire bikes or scooters to explore Brač’s interior villages and viewpoints. In the evening, choose a konoba or pizzeria beside the harbour and enjoy watching the rhythm of ferries arriving and departing while your boat rests quietly nearby. It’s a good night for a crew dinner celebrating the week’s best sail.
Cautions
Mind ferry movements and wash near the harbour entrance; keep clear of turning areas and follow local instructions for mooring.
Facilities
Water, electricity, fuel nearby, supermarkets, bakeries, restaurants, bars, beach services, clinic and pharmacy in town.
Day 7 – Supetar to Split
The final leg of your Central Croatia sailing loop is short but satisfying. Leave Supetar, set a course across the familiar channel, and watch Split’s skyline grow on the horizon: Marjan hill to one side, the old town and harbour cranes ahead. This is a nice chance to let different crew members take the helm, practice a few tacks, and reflect on how much more confident everyone feels than on day one. Approaching Split, you’ll share the water with ferries, trip boats, and other yachts returning from their own adventures. Once inside the harbour and back on your berth, there’s always a small glow of achievement—your Croatia sailing itinerary has come full circle.
10 nautical miles
2hrs sailing time
LUNCH STOP:none planned
MOORING:Return to your original charter base marina or berth; reservations are usually fixed with the charter company.
Description
The final leg of your Central Croatia sailing loop is short but satisfying. Leave Supetar, set a course across the familiar channel, and watch Split’s skyline grow on the horizon: Marjan hill to one side, the old town and harbour cranes ahead. This is a nice chance to let different crew members take the helm, practice a few tacks, and reflect on how much more confident everyone feels than on day one. Approaching Split, you’ll share the water with ferries, trip boats, and other yachts returning from their own adventures. Once inside the harbour and back on your berth, there’s always a small glow of achievement—your Croatia sailing itinerary has come full circle.
Attractions
With the boat secure and checked, head into Split’s old town for a last wander. Explore more of Diocletian’s Palace, climb the bell tower if legs allow, or simply sit at a café on the Riva and watch the waterfront life flow past. Some crews like to fit in a final swim at a nearby city beach, while others prefer souvenir hunting in side streets. In the evening, pick a restaurant inside the palace walls or along the promenade and toast the week: seven days, several islands, and a good mix of adventure and comfort. Overnight aboard, ready for checkout and onward travel the following morning.
Cautions
Heavy traffic around Split; maintain a good lookout, respect ferry channels, and refuel at the fuel dock without blocking approaches.
Facilities
Full marina services: water, power, fuel, major supermarkets, chandlery, repairs, restaurants, bars, medical centres, pharmacies.
Facilities Summary
Stop
Water
Power
Fuel
Groceries
Restaurants
Medical/Pharmacy
Notes
Split
✅
✅
✅
Large
Many
✅
Main charter base, full service
Milna
✅
✅
✅
Small
Several
Basic/Pharmacy
Two marinas plus town quay
Stari Grad
✅
✅
Nearby
Medium
Several
Clinic/Pharmacy
Good mid-route resupply
Vis
✅
✅
✅
Medium
Many
✅
Tours and scooter rentals
Hvar
✅
✅
Nearby
Medium
Many
Clinic/Pharmacy
Lively waterfront
Supetar
✅
✅
Nearby
Medium
Several
Clinic/Pharmacy
Ferry hub on Brač
Consider the Reverse Route
This itinerary runs clockwise from Split to Milna, Stari Grad, Vis, Hvar, Supetar, then back to Split. It works well with typical summer breezes, easing crews into things with shorter hops before the longer Stari Grad–Vis and Hvar–Supetar legs. Arriving in livelier Hvar later in the week also means your crew has already practiced Med mooring in slightly calmer harbours. Reversing the route—Split → Supetar → Hvar → Vis → Stari Grad → Milna → Split—has its own logic. You’d hit Hvar earlier, then unwind gradually toward quieter Vis and Stari Grad, which some people prefer. The main consideration is how stronger systems might affect open-water legs; in a bura, for instance, you may want to favour more sheltered coastlines on the most exposed days. Either way, you still enjoy Central Dalmatia’s highlights. For a first-time Croatia sailing itinerary, the clockwise version here strikes a good balance between excitement, learning, and gentle finishes to each day.
Support Aids
Whether chartering or welcoming friends onboard your own yacht, these FREE KiwiSailor aids will come in handy and help ease your preparations ….meaning the first drink on this journey is so much more enjoyable:
There are so many variables to consider when planning an itinerary and estimating sailing times and distances, so one needs to appreciate that these are an estimate only.
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Planned Stopping Locations
As they say, you always plan to ‘sail toward’ and not ‘sail to’, as something unplanned could happen. So one should also consider a ‘bolt-hole’ (a sheltered location where a you can find refuge from bad weather for example). I have not planned for these as there are naturally many variables and options to allow for. So look ahead in the plan and always keep an eye on the weather.
Sailing Distance
I use a planning method that adds a safety margin and thus produces a distance, which tends to be 10–20% longer than charted straight-line or optimised-tool calculations. Assuming:
clearing headlands
tacking angles in light wind
staying outside rocky headlands/fringes
not hugging the coastline
Sailing Time
Sailing time is obviously a function of distance and speed, and again speed can vary considerably. My approach here assumes:
round to the nearest 30 mins
relatively clean hull
a cruising speed of 6 knots, which provides small allowances for:
leaving and entering harbours (but ignore berthing or for example anchoring drop/retrieval time)
trimming sails
occasional lulls
motor sailing if wind is too light to maintain 6 knots
Ultimately my approach is to allow for “steady” sailing as you would normally on vacation, rather than sporty Saturday racing at the local club.
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